Sunday, February 20, 2011

The Fields of Gabine Juno

In Book VII of the Aeneid, Virgil describes the Latin peoples and mentions the arva Gabinae Junonis (the fields of Gabine Juno, 682-683). This past Tuesday, we had the opportunity to visit those fields when we went to the site of Gabii, an ancient town outside of Rome which began to decline in significance and size as other cities became more important. At the site is a massive temple and sanctuary to Juno. The area was beautiful:
Well, actually, this photo is of nearby Palestrina (ancient Praeneste), but it gives you the idea. At Praeneste, we got to see a museum and the remains of some monumental architecture. Basically, the Romans built up a large temple complex using concrete and vaulted architecture. So resilient were Roman architectural methods and materials that, during the Second World War, when the allies bombed the Italians and Germans entrenched on the mountain, only the medieval, renaissance, and modern buildings were destroyed; the Roman concrete was by and large unscathed.Here is a picture of Scott (aka Professor Smith) giving a lecture in one of the crypts at Praeneste. I also have Scott for Latin and some have him for intermediate Greek.
We then went to a boat museum (shown above). There we got to see reconstructions of Caligula's (Gaius Caesar) pleasure boats. The model that you see here is only 1/10 the size of the original ships. Originally, the museum was meant to house the two ships, but during WWII, retreating Nazis burned down the museum and the boats were lost (forever!). The ships must have been remarkable to behold, but alas, they are no more.
Then we visited what once was a sanctuary to Diana. We are told in a number of ancient sources that the Rex Nemorensis (king of the grove) was a priest here. Strabo says that "the people set up as priest merely a run-away slave who has slain with his own hand the man previously consecrated to that office; accordingly the priest is always armed with a sword, looking around for the attacks, and ready to defend himself." How are we to explain this strange story? Did the Rex Nemorensis really exist? If so, was he constantly in danger of being killed by a runaway slave and replaced? I am inclined to believe that the stories are real and that the practice was some sort of pseudo-human sacrifice, based on earlier religious beliefs.
And, after a truly long day of lecturing and traveling, we stopped on our way back and bought some gelato. Here is a photo that I took of some of the other Centristi. All in all, I enjoyed our trip to Gabii, Praeneste, etc. Our week long trips in Campagnia and Sicily will probably be similar - characterized by many wonderful sites, numerous lectures, and a lot of time spent on the bus - but for 7 days a week, and not just 1.

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